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Bike details
CBR600 Off Road Buggy
Estimated price for orientation: 1 120 $
Category: Trikes ATVs and Quads
Class:
Description Condition: Used: An item that has been previously used. See the seller’s listing for full details and description of any imperfections. See all condition definitions- opens in a new window or tab ... Read moreabout the condition Engine Size: 600 Gears: Six-speed manual Power: 100
Here we have a Honda CBR 600 Off Road Buggy.I started building this a year ago for the kids and finished it at the end of last summer ready for testing. Managed to get 10 mins wheelspinning round the next door pub car park before being covered for the winter.It has now sat for several months and am selling as I have got another couple of projects on the go and can't spend any more time on this. It's 100% complete but has not been tested properly to iron out any issues that will undoubtedly arise. I will list these as best I can so you know what your buying,Its a Joyner chassis with the weedy engine taking out and a CBR 600 F3 engine transplanted in. Custom rollcage put on top, mostly fully welded, couple of the struts tack welded as forgot to weld completely but they are OK. Engine is fine and starts on the button first time however, when you put it in gear it cuts out lol.. It's probably an issue with the sidestand switch being activated or the 'pink wire' gear position sensor not getting enough voltage back to the ECU. Apparantly this is common. Engine starts and revs like a nutter, but then obviously cuts out when you put it in first. The clutch is fine and hasn't siezed, engine OK, all the gears select fine. Its an electrical issue and I am not that knowledgeable with electrics so this is where I would have to bow to a person with better knowledge to finish this off properly.The engine is transplanted as compact as possible so it looks really good and has had to have many custom parts obviously like exhausts etc. (Try finding an original F3 header set. You won't) These things cost the earth and not the engine. The bare engine is probably the cheapest part of the build. Brakes are hydraulic discs on the front and split to a large rear disc. It has a solid rear axel as it's intended to be off road only. You could convert it to a diff I guess, but this would require abit of fabrication. It has a non standard rev counter that lights up but doesn't work and I have the standard clocks from the bike that you would need to plug in and extend to the from from the wiring loom. The clutch is on the gear lever and is slightly awkward if a child was using but you could convert to a pedal I guess ? There is obviously loads of custom parts like the petrol tank, radiator which is massive and the engine never overheats. I have gone for a realistic gearing ratio and converted it to a 530 chain for strength. It should top out at about 90 mph on my fag packet calculations but that's not the point. Should spin the wheels for fun in the first couple of gears. The chassis had some dents in it, the seats a couple of rips. The harnesses are fine though. Anyway, summary below:Things to do:Sort out the electrics properly. They seem OK but clearly there is an issue somewhere causing something to short out. I would change the gear selector arm. It's just a crude straight metal connector currently and I was going to put in a outboard engine steering arm push pull mechanism. Far smoother and I have this for you to fit but I have not got round to it. However the gears select fine so you could leave this.Wire up the actual clocks so you can see what revs your pulling. I have the clocks. Err, That's about it.So there we have it. You shouldn't need to buy anything, it will just take someone a short amount of time to fix the above. If you know what your doing with a wiring diagram, it could be a 30 min job. I don't and am not going through the loom again.I have no idea of value, but it's probably cost about £2,000 to get into this state more on all the custom parts. I'm not going to add it up, but it would be alot. Let alone the hours etc etc.. However, I'm realistic and will start the auction at £750 and it's no reserve, but please be aware you'll need to sort out the electrics (99% done). You could get a bargain as similar ones go for close to £3K and this ones a neat installation. You will then need to test it properly. There's no reason it shouldn't work fine, but it's a custom build so you may need to change something. I don't know. Any questions, please contact me. 0779 282 4447 Dan - send a text in the day. Buggy is in Birmingham. You will need a big trailer, I could deliver but don't really want to, but this can be arranged for an agreed petrol fee. Cash on collection.Your more than welcome to come an have a look in the week if you like an rev it up etc. Bid to buy not to haggle afterwards.
Description
| Condition: | Used: An item that has been previously used. See the seller’s listing for full details and description of any imperfections. See all condition definitions- opens in a new window or tab ... Read moreabout the condition | Engine Size: | 600 |
| Gears: | Six-speed manual | Power: | 100 |
Here we have a Honda CBR 600 Off Road Buggy.I started building this a year ago for the kids and finished it at the end of last summer ready for testing. Managed to get 10 mins wheelspinning round the next door pub car park before being covered for the winter.It has now sat for several months and am selling as I have got another couple of projects on the go and can't spend any more time on this. It's 100% complete but has not been tested properly to iron out any issues that will undoubtedly arise. I will list these as best I can so you know what your buying,Its a Joyner chassis with the weedy engine taking out and a CBR 600 F3 engine transplanted in. Custom rollcage put on top, mostly fully welded, couple of the struts tack welded as forgot to weld completely but they are OK. Engine is fine and starts on the button first time however, when you put it in gear it cuts out lol.. It's probably an issue with the sidestand switch being activated or the 'pink wire' gear position sensor not getting enough voltage back to the ECU. Apparantly this is common. Engine starts and revs like a nutter, but then obviously cuts out when you put it in first. The clutch is fine and hasn't siezed, engine OK, all the gears select fine. Its an electrical issue and I am not that knowledgeable with electrics so this is where I would have to bow to a person with better knowledge to finish this off properly.The engine is transplanted as compact as possible so it looks really good and has had to have many custom parts obviously like exhausts etc. (Try finding an original F3 header set. You won't) These things cost the earth and not the engine. The bare engine is probably the cheapest part of the build. Brakes are hydraulic discs on the front and split to a large rear disc. It has a solid rear axel as it's intended to be off road only. You could convert it to a diff I guess, but this would require abit of fabrication. It has a non standard rev counter that lights up but doesn't work and I have the standard clocks from the bike that you would need to plug in and extend to the from from the wiring loom. The clutch is on the gear lever and is slightly awkward if a child was using but you could convert to a pedal I guess ? There is obviously loads of custom parts like the petrol tank, radiator which is massive and the engine never overheats. I have gone for a realistic gearing ratio and converted it to a 530 chain for strength. It should top out at about 90 mph on my fag packet calculations but that's not the point. Should spin the wheels for fun in the first couple of gears. The chassis had some dents in it, the seats a couple of rips. The harnesses are fine though. Anyway, summary below:Things to do:Sort out the electrics properly. They seem OK but clearly there is an issue somewhere causing something to short out. I would change the gear selector arm. It's just a crude straight metal connector currently and I was going to put in a outboard engine steering arm push pull mechanism. Far smoother and I have this for you to fit but I have not got round to it. However the gears select fine so you could leave this.Wire up the actual clocks so you can see what revs your pulling. I have the clocks. Err, That's about it.So there we have it. You shouldn't need to buy anything, it will just take someone a short amount of time to fix the above. If you know what your doing with a wiring diagram, it could be a 30 min job. I don't and am not going through the loom again.I have no idea of value, but it's probably cost about £2,000 to get into this state more on all the custom parts. I'm not going to add it up, but it would be alot. Let alone the hours etc etc.. However, I'm realistic and will start the auction at £750 and it's no reserve, but please be aware you'll need to sort out the electrics (99% done). You could get a bargain as similar ones go for close to £3K and this ones a neat installation. You will then need to test it properly. There's no reason it shouldn't work fine, but it's a custom build so you may need to change something. I don't know. Any questions, please contact me. 0779 282 4447 Dan - send a text in the day. Buggy is in Birmingham. You will need a big trailer, I could deliver but don't really want to, but this can be arranged for an agreed petrol fee. Cash on collection.Your more than welcome to come an have a look in the week if you like an rev it up etc. Bid to buy not to haggle afterwards.